
A Postcard
from Fremantle
It's
been the Anzac Day weekend here in Australia- kind of like an extra
Remembrance Sunday with a bank holiday attached and with a slight chip on
the shoulder because all too often the Aussies were the foot soldiers
under ineffective British officers. I urge everybody who reads this to
look up the story of the Kokoda Trail during the Second World War as an
example of Australian determination under fire.
Anyway, today I went to Freo (otherwise Fremantle), the major port in
Western Australia and also Perth's playground. Being a public holiday,
the popular beaches were already filling with gorgeous specimens of Aussie
womanhood in skimpy cossies as we headed down. The thing about Freo is
that it's still a working port- there are freighters out at sea waiting to
unload and the USS Kitty Hawk was in town, so the papers are full of
stories of American sailors starting fights in bars rather than following
the honourable tradition of 'On the Town' and breaking into spontaneous
song.
The maritime museum here is good- very imaginatively laid out, as if
they've actively tried to avoid just having boats lined up in a hall.
Boats and walkways are positioned at unusual angles, and the role of sea
transport in Australia's history told concisely. They have Australia II,
the yacht which won the Americas Cup, and the HMAS Ovens, a submarine
which you can tour. And they have the lamp from the Cape Leveque
lighthouse. The other main attraction is Fremantle Prison- built in
Victorian times and in use until 1991. The amazing thing about it is that
the majority of it hasn't been tarted up for tourists at all- the rusty
bits have been left rusty and they could have taken the prisoners out ten
minutes ago. And it's not without its reminders that prison isn't a jolly
holiday camp- that the inmates were there for a good reason in the
majority of cases and some of them for very unpleasant reasons indeed.
Some of them even come back and do tours, although it's a little sad that,
as the law in Western Australia says that you can't work for the state if
you have a criminal record, they had to let some who were working as
guides go.
That's about it for now- the fish and chips at Ciccarello's on the
quayside is great, although I've no idea what kind of fish it was.
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